A foldable awning is a shade that is used in houses and shops to cover a patio or a deck. It is mostly controlled with a remote and installed either on the outside windows or doors of shops and houses. Since it’s a protruding coverage outside the window or door, it helps in controlling the house’s temperature during summers, by controlling the sun rays. Carpets and curtains are also protected from the direct sun rays.

How To Install Window Canopy Over T1-11 Siding Wall
How To Install Window Canopy Over T1-11 Siding

In hotels and restaurants, these serve as a good open are area joints. By placing chairs under the awnings, you can give the guests an open air restaurant experience while keeping them safe from the heat.

Installing a best retractable awning is mostly a simple task and doesn’t require any expertise. But, it is vital to arrange the perfect tools before getting started. So, let’s start with the tools required for the installation.

Measurement tape. It is very important in the entire process but instead of buying it, you can make use of the one that you might already have.
Marker including chalk and pencil. Chalks will be required to draw lines which you can wipe off after the aleko awning installation process is over. Pencil is required for making the marks.
Screwdriver or wrench will be required to tighten the bolts.
Board is necessary to create the base of your awning. So its measurement should match the awning’s size.
Drilling machine also might be either bought or borrowed, if you don’t possess one.
Lag bolts depending on your awning.
Ladders. It must be sturdy enough to take the weight of the person mounting on it.

It is always advisable to buy the installation kit while purchasing the retractable awning. This is mostly crucial for the lag bolts and the board. Though you might be tempted to use the extra lag bolts in your house, avoid doing it. If the lag bolts do not match the size of the mounting bracket exactly then the installation will not be reliable. Same applies for the header board. It should exactly counterpart your awning.

Once you have purchased or arranged all the required tools, installing the retractable awning is a day’s job.

T1-11 siding was a great siding in the 80's and it can still look good today but it might not appeal to everyone and I get a lot of questions from people who ask if they can cover their T1-11 siding up with stucco.

Can You Apply Stucco Over Existing T-111 Siding?

T1-11 is an engineered plywood product. It provides an easy and efficient method for siding rustic structures like barns and sheds, and is commonly used on houses as well. It comes untreated, so you have to paint or stain it after installation if you want it to last and provide maximum weather resistance. Submitted by Nichoel Farris on Fri, - 02:23. If possible, you should remove the T111. It can rot under the Hardi, and there might be additional issues that need to be addressed. Better now than later. An air barrier is installed on the warm side of the exterior wall. Complete the installation of the first horizontal row of T1-11 siding following standard construction practices. Typical installation aligns the bottom edge of the first row of siding 2 to 4 inches below the wall's bottom sill plate and over a continuous layer of waterproof kraft paper or polyethylene plastic sheeting.

Yes, you can go directly over T1-11 siding with any type of stucco system if the T1-11 siding is properly prepared.

This involves removing any trim on the house on corners, seams, windows and doors. You want an even plane to start with to ensure that the stucco is properly installed and looks seamless after it is all finished.

Removing The Trim:

Like I mentioned earlier, you will need to remove all of the trim on the house/building before the stucco lath can be applied to the walls.

Now this is recommended for a clean stucco installation and in theory, you would not have to remove the trim if you wanted to keep it and stucco up to the trim but in most cases people want all of the trim removed for a number of reasons.

The pictures below illustrate some areas where the trim would have to be removed but does not point to all of the trim.

These are to illustrate what I am talking about and remember that ALL of the trim will end up getting removed.

Standard T1-11: A typical T1-11 house will have trim on the corners, around the windows and around the doors and is considered the 'standard' as far as trim goes.

You might even find trim on some of the seams that covers up the Z flashing or along the bottom edges of the walls that run horizontally. These will all have to be removed prior to installing the stucco lath.

T1-11 With Batten Boards: Sometimes people use 1x lumber that is arranged in a vertical pattern that creates a 'batten board' look. All of the trim, along with the batten boards will have to be removed in order to provide the best substrate for stucco.

What Shape Is Your Siding In?

Dry Rot Areas: Another important note worth mentioning is that all of your existing T1-11 siding should be in good shape and strong.

Any areas that are rotted or soft will need to be patched in with a similar thickness plywood or OSB of some sort before covering the walls up with lath.

This doesn't have to be an involved process of replacing an entire sheet if the area is smaller in size, just cut out the affected area from stud center to stud center and patch the area with a cut piece of plywood/OSB/T1-11.

Try to keep the paper underneath the siding in tact, if you can as it will make the wall more waterproof.

Bulges: If your siding is bulging out anywhere, you will need to try to get it to lay down flat on the wall as this bulge could show through in the finished product.

Adding some extra nails or screws (usually works a little better) can help suck the siding flat to the studs.

Bottom Edges Of Siding: The bottom edges of the siding will also need to be inspected and corrected if any issues exist. These are usually in the form of rotting or the T1-11 siding is touching concrete, brick or some other dissimilar material.

You will want a gap of 1' minimum between the siding and any other dissimilar material and can be achieved by snapping a line and cutting the siding with a circular saw, in most cases.

Don't Forget The Vents!

Usually there are a couple of different kinds of vents that are installed on houses that have wood siding like T1-11 but some will need to be replaced (or all of them) with proper stucco compatible vents.

The foundation vents will usually have to be replaced if they are a flush (close to flush) mounted type because the stucco is typically 7/8' to 1 3/8' thick, depending on whether you are installing a three coat or one coat stucco system.

You will need foundation vents that have a flange around the perimeter that measures 7/8' or 1 3/8' and are specifically designed to have the exact standoff for stucco systems.

Gable vents and dryer vents are two other types of vents that will also need to be inspected and replaced if they do not have a standoff of 7/8' or 1 3/8'.

Alternative To Replacing Vents: The only other alternative to installing new vents would be to install plaster stop around the vents to provide a ground (depth gauge) for the stucco, as illustrated below with a special made dryer vent.

Installing plaster stop around every vent is WAY more time consuming and can cost just as much as buying new vents.

If you choose to go this route, all of your vents that are flush mounted will appear recessed, which some people like.

What About Windows?

How Windows Are Typically Installed On T1-11 Siding: On a typical T1-11 siding installation a water barrier is placed directly over the studs, the window area is cut out, flashing is installed, the window is installed and the T1-11 siding is installed over the window flanges.

This is a good method and works well so you could just run your stucco paper right up to the window and it would be fine, assuming that your windows have never leaked before.

How To Install Window Canopy Over T1-11 Siding Wall

An Alternative Me